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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 9:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:06 pm
Posts: 11
Dave,

I have found that the touch up paint I purchased from Waterford will come off the frame with alcohol (and probably other solvents.) I found this out when removing some adhesive from the frame. Is there something I can do to seal the spots that have been touched up?

TIA


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 Post subject: touch up procedures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 10:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 4:48 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Eugene Oregon
actually I just orderred some touch up paint and will be needing any tips on how to apply as well....

Pat Mc


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 Post subject: Re: touch up procedures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 9:14 am 
Pjmsj21 wrote:
actually I just orderred some touch up paint and will be needing any tips on how to apply as well....

Pat Mc


Hi Pat,

Go over the scratched/chipped area with an eraser. This will remove dirt. Next apply the touch up paint & try to stay within the scratched/chipped area. You will achieve the best blend/appearance by doing so (easier said than done though!).

Hope that helps!

BSG


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:02 pm 
Howdy Slim Chance,

The touch up paint will come off with a solvent, but only for a while. Here is why:

Unlike the original paint on the frame, there are no hardeners to speed up the curing process. Hardeners added to touch up would render it useless in a matter of hours. Your new frame paint gets the advantage and has to be baked in an oven. The touch up needs to air dry and because there is no heat, can take up top 3 weeks to fully cure.

For the simple Gunnar colors: Black, Blue, Red & Yellow, we like to suggest Testors model paint. The paint is designed to air cure, without heat.

Best,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:06 pm
Posts: 11
Thanks for the info BSG and Dave. I don't normally use solvents on the frame and will certainly test any retouched areas before doing so again.

I did find that the metal flake undercoat is hard to lay down smoothly because it is thicker and tends to get lumpy pretty fast. Let's hope I don't have to get good at it!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:20 pm
Posts: 4
Location: San Diego, CA
http://www.yellowjersey.org/paint_repair.html

Generally you only use primter in a touchup area if the chipped area is large, like 1/2" or bigger. However, there is nothing stopping you from using paint thinner to get the touchup paint very thin. I have been successful by thinning enamel a lot, and then getting a hairline brush, and then filling in just the area that needs it - maybe 2 or 3 coats - until a "leveling" is reached. After it dries - and that may take weeks - you can go over the area lightly with 2000 grit sandpaper to perfect the touchup job. Patience is key! Good Luck!


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